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As tokens of loyalty and affection, portrait miniatures were an intimate way to further one’s agenda. Power players commissioned Nicholas Hilliard and Isaac Oliver, the most talented miniaturists in England, to paint these exquisitely detailed portraits, often set in locket-like gold frames. They were to be viewed privately, rather than hung on a wall for all to see.

A photograph of five miniature portraits, each captured in an oval cartouche, mounted in a grey case against a purple background

Power player move: marry the queen’s crush

Nicholas Hilliard was the most sought-after limner in Queen Elizabeth’s reign, painting nearly all of the influential men and women in her inner circle. This portrait by him is tentatively identified as Lettice Knollys, a cousin of the queen and one of her ladies-in-waiting. When Knollys secretly married the Earl of Leicester, the queen’s greatest love and one of Hilliard’s most important patrons (Rule 13), she was banished from court.

Nicholas Hilliard, Miniature portrait of Lettice Knollys, Countess of Leicester. Watercolor on vellum, approximately 1590–95 | Folger FPm9
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A Favorite of King James

Philip Herbert grew up in the court of Queen Elizabeth but enjoyed a meteoric rise to power under King James, who was enamored with Philip’s appearance and enthusiasm for hunting and jousting (Rules 8 and 3). Philip here wears the blue ribbon of the Order of the Garter (Rule 2). Shakespeare’s “First Folio” was dedicated to Philip and his brother William.

Isaac Oliver, Miniature portrait of Philip Herbert, 4th Earl of Pembroke. Watercolor on vellum, 1611 | Folger FPm10
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The royal family

Prince Henry was the first child of King James and Queen Anne. A beloved heir to the throne and patron of the arts, he died of typhoid at the age of 18. After his premature death, miniatures of him were in high demand. Henry here wears the blue ribbon of the Order of the Garter with a pendant George (Rule 2) over his armor.

Isaac Oliver, Miniature portrait of Philip Herbert, 4th Earl of Pembroke. Watercolor on vellum, 1611 | Folger FPm10
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These miniatures, believed to depict King James and Queen Anne, were painted and framed as a pair by an unidentified artist. The style of the monarchs’ attire and ruffs, especially Anne’s standing wired lace ruff, suggests they were made around 1620.

Miniature portrait of King James I. Watercolor on vellum, approximately 1620 | Folger FPm11
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Miniature portrait of Anne of Denmark. Watercolor on vellum, approximately 1620 | Folger FPm12
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See this exhibition at the Folger

How to Be a Power Player: Tudor Edition
A man dressed in court fashions during the reign of James I

How to Be a Power Player: Tudor Edition

Social climbing was a competitive sport in Tudor England, requiring a complex range of skills, strategies, and techniques. This exhibition explores what it takes to become an early modern mover and shaker.
Through July 2025
Rose Exhibition Hall